Suede is not cared for like smooth leather. Everything that works on a smooth hide — the damp cloth, the conditioning lotion, the polish — damages it for good. Suede is treated dry, with a brush, and almost never with water. This guide covers suede and nubuck, from everyday care to the most stubborn stains.
Suede vs Nubuck vs Velour Leather: What Sets Them Apart
The three words are often used interchangeably. They do not mean the same thing.
Suede is made by sanding the flesh side of the hide, the inner side. The nap is long, soft and slightly fuzzy. It is the softest material of the three, and the most sensitive to marks.
Nubuck is sanded on the grain side, the outer side. The nap is much shorter, denser and more even. It is more resistant, gets dirty less quickly, and can be recognised by its firmer touch, almost velvety-satin.
Velour leather is the generic trade term that covers both.
The good news: they are cared for in exactly the same way. Nubuck is simply a little more forgiving.
The Rule That Overrides All Others
No water.
A drop of water on suede leaves a darker ring that takes hours to fade, and sometimes never fully disappears. A damp cloth wiped over the whole surface flattens the nap and kills the velvety texture. A washing machine destroys the piece.
Everything that follows stems from this: suede is cleaned dry, in the vast majority of cases.
The Kit: Three Items, No More
- A suede brush. Rubber crepe on one side, fine brass or nylon bristles on the other. It is the central tool: most suede care comes down to brushing.
- A suede eraser. A block of natural rubber that removes dry marks, rub marks and shiny areas.
- A suede protector spray, in an aerosol. Specific to suede — certainly not a product for smooth leather.
You need nothing else. No lotion, no cream, no polish, no soap.
Everyday Care: Brushing
After three or four wears, brush the whole piece dry.
Work in one direction only, that of the nap, with long, even strokes. You can find the direction of the nap by running your hand over it: one way the surface lightens, the other way it darkens. Always brush in the same direction, from the top to the bottom of the panels.
Pay particular attention to the areas that rub: the collar, the bottom of the sleeves, the front of the pockets, the upper back if you carry a bag. These are the first to become shiny.
This one gesture, done regularly, is enough to keep a piece in good condition for years.
How to Remove Stains From Suede, Case by Case
- Rain — do not intervene. Hang the piece on a wide hanger, at room temperature, away from any source of heat, and let it dry completely. Once dry, brush: the nap lifts and the water ring usually disappears.
- Mud — above all, do not wipe it. Let it dry completely, until it crumbles, then brush dry. Wet mud that is rubbed works its way permanently into the fibre.
- Grease — dab off the excess without rubbing and without water. For a stain that persists, or on a piece you value, entrust it to a suede professional.
- Dry marks or rubbing — the suede eraser, in small movements, then a stroke of the brush to lift the nap.
- Winter salt — let it dry and brush. If the ring persists, use only a product designed for suede, or entrust the piece to a professional.
- Shiny areas — on a collar or cuff that has become shiny, use the eraser then brush firmly. If the velvety texture does not come back, entrust the piece to a suede specialist rather than trying a more aggressive treatment.
- Ink — do not try anything. On suede, all home remedies spread the stain and eat into the dye. A leather professional is the only answer.
Suede Caught in the Rain
This is the most common situation, and the one where the most damage is done through overzealousness.
Shake the piece to remove surface water. Hang it on a wide hanger, open, in a room at a moderate temperature. Keep it away from any source of heat: suede dried near a radiator stiffens and the nap no longer lifts. Allow a full night.
Once it is perfectly dry, brush the whole surface in the direction of the nap. In the vast majority of cases, the piece recovers its original appearance.
How to Waterproof Suede: When and How
It is the only preventive treatment that matters on suede, and it makes a big difference.
Apply before the first wear, then according to the product instructions. On a clean and perfectly dry piece, outdoors or in a ventilated room.
Test first on a hidden area — an inside panel, under the collar — and wait an hour. Then spray at the distance stated on the product, in a thin, even layer, without ever soaking. Two light coats are better than one heavy one. Leave to dry for the time indicated, then brush.
What You Should Never Do
- Wipe a damp cloth over the whole surface.
- Apply a lotion, cream or polish for smooth leather — they flatten the nap irreversibly.
- Put it in the washing machine, even on a delicate programme.
- Dry it near a radiator, with a hairdryer or in full sun.
- Rub a wet stain. Always wait for it to dry.
- Store it in a plastic garment bag: suede needs to breathe.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you clean a suede jacket?
Dry, with a suede brush, in the direction of the nap. The eraser for localised marks. Only use water if the care label of the piece allows it.
Can you wash suede with water?
No. Neither by hand nor in the machine. Water flattens the nap and leaves rings.
How do you remove a stain from suede?
It all depends on the stain: an eraser for dry marks, complete drying then brushing for mud and rain, a professional for stubborn grease and ink. What they have in common is that you never treat a stain that is still wet. For a smooth leather jacket, see our guide how to remove a stain from a leather jacket.
How do you restore the nap of flattened suede?
Eraser, then firm brushing. If that is not enough, entrust the piece to a suede specialist.
Is nubuck cared for differently from suede?
No, the steps are identical. Its shorter nap gets dirty less quickly and lifts more easily.
Can suede go to the dry cleaner?
Yes, but only to a dry cleaner that handles leather, not a standard one. A standard textile clean fades and stiffens the hide.
Why is my suede darker in places?
The direction of the nap. Brush it all in the same direction and the colour becomes even again.
Suede at Varenne
Our suede jackets are made of cowhide suede. This guide applies to their surface.
One point to watch on suede pieces: any smooth leather details are cared for as smooth leather — a barely damp cloth, and a smooth leather conditioner only if the care label provides for it. Treat the two materials separately, without letting smooth leather product spill over onto the suede.
For smooth leather, see our guide How to Care for a Leather Jacket, Season by Season.
A question about your piece? Contact us, stating the model and the nature of the problem.